What to do in Turin when it rains: a local's guide
There are a number of films and short films dedicated to cities and metropolises in the rain, but none yet on Turin. And that’s a shame. Because Turin in the rain is an experience to be had. With climate change, rain is no longer confined to long, humid November and autumn days. A tropical downpour could catch you red-handed on a spring day, or it could rain heavily for several days in summer. For this reason, whether you live in Turin or are visiting as a tourist, it is always best to have an alternative plan with you in any season. And an umbrella, of course.
What is certain is that a good part of the city, especially the centre, seems to have been built specifically to welcome wanderers surprised by a downpour. There are so many museums and indoor activities to do in the city that, whether with adults or children, you have no excuse to be bored.
Where to walk in Turin when it rains
The Porticoes: A walk in the dry
When it rains in Turin, seek shelter under the porticoes. Tall, wide, and elegant, they are the place where life continues even when the weather is bad. Simply take refuge under such beauty to continue walking undisturbed and in the dry.
The porticoes of Turin are ancient. The first were built in the seventeenth century in Piazza Castello. In the eighteenth century, the porticoes of Via Po and the Giardino Reale were built. The porticoes of Piazza Vittorio Veneto, Piazza Statuto, and Piazza Carlo Felice date back to the nineteenth century. As the centuries passed, their number increased, and the porticoes became part of the urban fabric.
From Turin Porta Nuova Station to Porta Susa, you must imagine a pedestrian route entirely covered by porticoes: a beautiful and long circular walk to take even in bad weather. Today, the Turin porticoes count 18 kilometers and are divided between the unforgettable and sumptuous, such as those in Piazza San Carlo, and the simpler but equally fascinating. Under the porticoes, a lively life flows: bookshops, antique shops, historical cafes, small shops... which you can always reach, even in the rain.
There is a typically Savoy curiosity linked to the porticoes of Via Po and the rain: if you walk along Via Po leaving Piazza Castello behind you, you will notice that the porticoes are not the same on both sides. Those on the left are completely covered, even near the intersections with the side streets, where there are pedestrian crossings; this is because King Victor Emmanuel I of Savoy asked to completely cover the porticoes, to allow the royal family to reach the Church of Gran Madre without getting wet in case of bad weather.
What to do in Turin when it rains: stroll under the arcades of Via Roma
The galleries: A sheltered walk
Where can you be more sheltered than in a welcoming and sparkling arcade? Intermittently between the porticoes, hidden by streets and avenues, and squeezed by the city's most royal and lively squares, Turin's arcades are three, and each one is more characteristic than the last. Perfect for sheltering from the cold and rain, they were also frequented mostly by the nobility and the bourgeoisie, who used to meet here to walk.
The Galleria Subalpina, accessible from Via Po and sandwiched between Piazza Castello and Piazza Carlo Alberto, is a real treasure chest, built in 1873 by the architect Pietro Carrera. Be warned: it is impossible to resist the charm of this place.
The Galleria San Federico, perhaps the most elegant of the three, was built in 1933 and bombed several times during the second World War. It connects Piazza San Carlo with Via Roma and Via Viotti.
Standing close to Piazza della Repubblica, in the Aurora district, and to the famous and colourful Porta Palazzo market, the Galleria Umberto I is the city’s most popular arcade. Its history is linked to that of the old Ospedale Mauriziano, which stood here for over three centuries, until it was moved to Corso Turati in 1884.
What to do in Turin when it rains: shelter in the Galleria Subalpina
A break in a historical cinema
If on a rainy day in Turin you don't want to walk either under the porticoes or in the galleries, you can always choose to go to the cinema. The historic cinemas in the centre are very popular, especially during winter weekends when low temperatures encourage citizens to spend their free time indoors. There are many historic cinemas in the centre, with a retro look, that you will find hidden by the porticoes or surprisingly in the galleries. Cinemas with niche programming, art-house films, and often original-language screenings. Places that have made the history of cinema, not only in Turin but internationally.
There is the Cinema Nuovo Romano, in the Galleria Subalpina. Opened in 1911, it was built where the Caffè Concerto Romano and the Lumière cinematograph once stood. Today it is the oldest cinema in Turin.
There is the Cinema Lux, in the Galleria San Federico, designed by the architect Eugenio Corte in 1934 under the name Cinema Rex. During the fascist period, it took the name Dux and only in 1945 did it change its name again and take its current one. It had almost 1600 seats and for this reason, it was one of the most modern and largest cinemas in the city.
Among the cinemas that have made the history of Turin, we cannot forget the Cinema Classico. It is located under the porticoes overlooking Piazza Vittorio Veneto, near Caffè Elena. It opened in 1913 with the name Cinema Impero and a single hall, then took the name Vittorio Veneto in 1942 and again Empire. A small curiosity: from 1979 to 1989, the Cinema Classico was a red-light cinema.
A few steps from the Mole is the Cinema Massimo, inaugurated in 1934 with a single projection room with a capacity of 1000 seats. It was heavily damaged during the Second World War bombings but was rebuilt. Since the end of the 1980s, the Cinema Massimo has been managed by the Museo Nazionale del Cinema.
What to do in Turin when it rains: visit the Cinema Lux into the elegant Galleria San Federico
A hot chocolate to wait for the rain to stop
After the cinema, what better way to wait for the rain to stop than to go for a snack? Chatting about the film you’ve just seen over a nice hot chocolate and a slice of cake is an absolute must. You can opt for one of the city's many historical cafés, or for a more modern chocolate or cake shop. Here are some addresses to remember:
Caffè Torino
Opened in the early 20th century, Caffè Torino overlooks Piazza San Carlo, known fondly as “Turin's living room”. Inside is a feast of marble, chandeliers, mirrors and…Gianduiotti chocolates!
Address: Piazza San Carlo, 204
Where to walk in Turin when it rains: enjoy a hot chocolate into the hystorical Caffè Torino
Caffè Platti
Established in 1875, over the years this café has boasted many famous loyal customers. Like whom, I hear you ask? Cesare Pavese and Luigi Einaudi, to name just two. Whether you prefer sweet or savoury foods, Caffè Platti caters to every taste with its delicious sandwiches and pastries.
Address: Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 72
Caffè Confetteria Baratti & Milano
This is a must-see destination after visiting the Galleria Subalpina or watching a film at the Cinema Romano. Opened in 1875, Baratti & Milano was a purveyor to the royal family, earning the café its outstanding success over the centuries. This is the perfect place in Turin in which to sip a hot chocolate on rainy days.
Address: Piazza Castello, 29
Where to walk in Turin when it rains: make a stop at Baratti & Milano in the Subalpina Gallery
Caffè Confetteria Al Bicerin
Opened in 1793, this historical café’s patrons come here above all for its famous ‘Bicerin’, a hot drink made from coffee, chocolate and cream sweetened with syrup. This café too boasts many loyal illustrious guests, such as Giacomo Puccini, Camillo Benso and Friedrich Nietzsche. Caffè Al Bicerin has been used several times as a film set.
Address: Piazza della Consolata, 5
Farmacia del Cambio
A curious name for a fascinating place. Located in Piazza Carignano, right next to the famous Ristorante Del Cambio, this historic pastry shop was created from an old pharmacy. The elegant and refined atmosphere makes it the perfect place for a delicious break, with exquisite chocolates and signature desserts.
Address: Piazza Carignano, 2
Torteria Olsen
Torteria Olsen is a small venue in a side street off the busy Via Garibaldi. As soon as you set foot inside, you’ll feel like you’ve wondered into an art gallery. All the cakes, whether sweet or savoury, are wholesome and handmade, and can be washed down with a wide selection of teas and infusions.
Address: Via Sant’Agostino, 4 B
WRITTEN BY: Elisa Midelio, Viaggiare con Serendipità